Ellis Faas E205 Milky Eyes

Let's face it- these photos and swatches don't look particularly attractive. Some colors are like that- they can only be appreciated as part of an actual eye look. Ellis Faas E205 Milky Eyes is firmly in that category. It's a cream-to-powder (i.e. a dry formula) eye shadow in a cool dark brown shade that can be described as an old tree bark.

Photogenic or not, Ellis Faas E205 Milky Eyes is a versatile cream eye shadow that gives me very satisfying results. Like all other Ellis Faas eye shadows I've tried so far there's a learning curve to using it and incorporating it into a makeup routine. Between the unique formula and the annoying applicator, one need to put a little time and thought into using Milky Eyes successfully. I've had this one for about three months and I'm now at a point I use it at least twice a week, so yes, I think it's a really good one.

Unlike Ellis Faas Creamy Eyes and Lights, Milky has a sponge applicator. It's a better dispensing method than the godawful plastic brush, but I'd still strongly advise not to count on it for actual application. Just click the pen carefully until you have a very little amount of product and use good eye makeup brushes from that point. Here's what I do:

After applying a light eye shadow as a base all over the lid and brow bone (both creams like Bobbi Brown Sand Dollar or any nude color in powder formula) I put the eye shadow on the back of my hand and work it into a smooth layer with a brush. I then either use a MAC 217 for a sheer(ish) well-blended dark crease or a more precise cream shadow brush (I like Sephora Platinum #25 or even Bobbi Brown Touch Up brush) for defining the outer V. I blend as usual, with any of my favorites.

The result is a very polished and elegant neutral eye (it can be intensified, of course) that stays put for 16-18 hours without fading or creasing. I never doubted the quality of Ellis Faas formulas, but this one still managed to surprise me a little, because it looks so unassuming when you first try it on.

The only problem with Milky Eyes (just as with the other eye shadows of the line) is the amount of product that's wasted because of the application method. What you see in the photos is enough for three or four people . I've since learned to dispense a little less, but there's still a significant waste as evident by the amount of product left on the back of my hand every time. I know Ellis Faas is hard at work on improving the applicators and I dearly hope we see some results soon, as this is an excellent line that would have had a lot more devoted fans had it been easier to use.

Bottom Line: not for newbies.

Ellis Faas E205 Milky Eyes ($36) is available from Bergdorf Goodman, Space NK and ellisfaas.com. A press sample was sent from the company for my consideration.

All photos are mine.

Ellis Faas Light Eyes E302

Ellis Faas Lights are five cream eye shadows with a shiny metallic finish. They come in the signature Ellis Faas pen applicator with a built-in brush and are meant to be the wow-factor part of the three available formulas.

I've covered the issue with this applicator format in my previous review and some readers have chimed in about their own experience. As I've mentioned, Ellis Faas is in the process of redesigning the pens, so hopefully the new ones would do justice to what is otherwise great formulas and colors. E302 Light Eyes is no different in that aspect- the golden green shade is gorgeous and versatile. You can sheer it out and work with a neutral/nude base to make it easier to wear, or keep it thicker and very rockstar. I use very little and keep it on the lid, close to my lash line, so it doesn't overwhelm. Ellis Lights can work for anything for a sheer all-over wash or as a liner, depending on the brush you use.  Once the color is dry and set (very quickly) it stays put over a primer and doesn't budge or crease. It's absolutely marvelous in this regard.

As for application, everything I said about E107 is still valid for E302. Click the pen with caution (you can see how much product was dispensed when I swatched) and don't even think about using the plastic built-in applicator. Clean it after every use to prevent clogging (I use makeup removing wipes), and make sure to always keep the cap tightly on the pen. This is a lot more maintenance than I like, not to mention that for the price I expect perfection without so much effort to make it work.

Bottom Line: I love the color and texture of the eye shadow. Applicator is still a disaster.

Ellis Faas Light  Eyes E302 ($42) is available from ellisfaas.com, Bergdorf Goodman (in store only) and SpaceNK. This product was sent by the company for my consideration.

All photos are mine.

Ellis Faas Creamy Eyes E107

Sometimes no photo or swatch can do justice to a makeup product. You just don't see the true effect until it's on your own face. Ellis Faas Creamy Eyes E107 is one such item- all you can see above is a stripe of a brownish taupish color on my arm. Even the on-eye photos of the shadow applied to a real model on Ellis Faas website don't give much more than a general idea of what this cream eye shadow can do. It's even more unfortunate because this niche brand has a limited distribution in actual stores, so few can actually see it in person.

Ellis Faas is a top makeup artist whose line of luxury makeup products in sleek packaging is quite different from other brands. Her specialty is cream and liquid textures and colors that are naturally part of every human body. The idea is to make makeup that melds with the skin and becomes part of the wearer. Now, that weird stripe of taupe you see above might make more sense.

Creamy Eyes E107 is a cream eye shadow that dries almost instantly into a beautiful taupe with a delicate velvety sheen and full coverage. It's a basic color for a nearly nude look or as a backdrop and anchoring shade with a touch of bright and bold liner. Once applied and blended it's amazing to see how flattering this unassuming and modest shade can become.

Now, the challenge is learning to deal with the texture and applicator. The pen is beautiful and is the best container to preserve the integrity of the unique formula and protect it from oxidizing, drying and general spoilage), but it's not exactly user friendly. It takes about a minute of determined clicking the first time you use the pen until the color comes bursting out (see photo). Then you realize that a) this is way too much product for one use, and b) the plastic brush applicator is utter crap. While the good people at Ellis Faas are working on improving it and promising we'll see results soon we still need to make it work as is.

There's a learning curve to Ellis Faas Creamy Eyes. I've been practicing and experimenting quite a bit until I was comfortable with it and was satisfied with the result, so don't start on a Monday morning when you're already 10 minutes behind schedule and already cranky. Take your time. The first thing one needs to learn is how to control the amount of products that comes out. That becomes easy after a couple of tries. Then there's application- avoid the built in brush and use a real one: any good flat cream eye shadow brush will do. I'm using Chanel,  Smashbox, Laura Mercier and the Sephora Platinum brand cream shadow/concealer brushes .  I've also started working with natural bristle brushes for an even finer finish. Also, don't be afraid to get your fingers into the cream. I use my ring finger and a brush together and love the result- the color and finish are gorgeous and end up looking amazingly professional and polished. There's absolutely nothing like it.

Bottom Line: Excellent but not for beginners.

Ellis Faas Creamy Eyes E107 ($36) is available from ellisfaas.com and Bergdorf Goodman (in-store only). A press sample was sent to me by the company.

All photos are mine.